The Draft - Part 2


Sonia's 2nd Skype skirt muslin came back in the mail, all pinned and I felt confident about actually making a real skirt with it. This means, that The House of Marmalalade's method for drafting a pencil skirt is working. 
After trying to work out all the drafting methods I had on hand, hers turned out to be the one I prefered. It's very simple, the ease is calculated right off the bat and is all in the back, which makes a lot of sense, and it's in metric so no conversion to do. If you want to draft yourself a pencil skirt you may try this one. As we are making a low waisted skirt, I cut 5cm off the top but the principle is the same.
On Friday, I set out to redraft and cut the proper pattern and ran into a lined back vent snag. I didn't want to make a slit, but a vent trying, as per usual, to do as little hand sewing as possible. 


Once again Kathleen came to the rescue, as she published some paper mock up for me to play with and Sunni's tutorial is full of pictures. Thanks to them I was able to make some sense out of it, trace and cut the fashion fabric and lining Sonia chose in my stash (I sent her tiny samples with the first muslin and she chose some of Suzanne's).
It turns out I don't quite have enough of it so the facings I carefully traced are spilling over the cutting table.


I don't know whether go look for some bias binding in my box of wonders or forgo facings altogether and put some of that wonderful DMC Lacet Superfin I bought too much of for sentimental reasons, as reinforcement at the waist. What do you recommend?

La Récréation / Recess


Je fabrique mes cadeaux de Noël et je ne peux pas vous montrer!
Pendant ce temps, on pourra rêver de se faire cette robe-tapis-cape de plage pour occuper le plus de surface possible à la plage! Elle me rappelle vaguement la robe de Jil Sander que j'ai beaucoup aimé au printemps. Ça doit être à cause des rayures.


I am making Christmas gifts and I can't show you!
So in the meantime, you can plan to make this beach-towel-cape-dress which vaguely reminds me of the Jil Sander dress I fell in love with in the Spring, probably because of the stripes. This one you'll want to make if you want to take up serious real estate at the beach!



Le Sac d'Ordinateur en Cuben Fiber



On apprend avec chaque projet.
Et la gestation de ce projet de recyclage à été longue car semée d'embûches. La principale étant tout le chemin parcouru pour trouver le matériel nécéssaire dans la région. J'ai ratissé un périmètre de 100km, écumé tous les magasins de tissu et les merceries et payé un exorbitant 27€ pour le tout! La prochaine fois que j'en fais un, je l'ai mis sur mon Etsy, je commande en ligne et je me fais livrer.


Le Cuben c'est transparent et un peu mou alors j'ai cousu du molleton au zigzag, ça fait voile, mais ma soeur qui aime tout ce que je fais en veut un et je pense que je vais surpiquer façon Chanel, ça va être du plus bel effet. 


Une des chose que j'ai choisi d'oublier, mais qui va trouver solution dans les prochaines éditions est l'épaisseur de tissu et du molleton. J'ai coupé la doublure de la même taille et c'est pas joli! De même, qu'il faudra mieux marquer et couper et ce n'est pas facile, une voile a une forme, il n'y a pas de droit fil et je ne peux pas compter sur mon oeil pour me dire la vérité! La fibre est sans appel avec les ciseaux et il faut avoir près de soi, en tout temps, le petit bitoniau pour aiguiser les ciseaux. Et enfin, le Cuben n'a pas la moindre petite elasticité qui permet de tirer un peu sur le tissu en cousant et de rattraper au repassage. D'ailleurs, le Cuben ça ne se repasse pas car le Cuben ne supporte aucune chaleur. Finalement, il faut que j'améliore la pose de galon de bordure aussi ou que j'en trouve un autre!  


Mais bon, même avec tous ces aléas, je ne suis pas mécontente du tout du résultat et quelques petites modifications vont vraiment l'améliorer. Vous savez ce qui est top dans ce sac? C'est qu'il pèse juste un peu plus de 500g, ce qui est très léger pour un sac imperméable et solide. Si on choisi une autre matière que ce denim noir pour la doublure, je parie qu'il va faire moins. 
Mainteant je vais être obligée de m'acheter un portable pour le tester moi-même!

The Cuben Fiber Laptop Messenger


With every project comes some kind of learning.
This recycling project was kind of long in gestation as it was fraught with all kinds of difficulties. The main one being I had to drive and hit all the fabric stores and all the haberdasheries in a 100kms radius to source all the whopping 27€ worth of materials needed to make it! I wanted to know what was available regionally and frankly it was a lot of trouble for not much. Next time I make one (I did put it for sale in my Etsy store), I'll order online.


Transparency was another problem, Cuben is see-through and a little limp so, I chose to back it up with white felting. I chose the zigzag stitch because it's a sail bag but, my sister who-will-wear-anything-I-send-her has asked for one and I think I'll try a little Chanel-like quilting with hers because I think it'll look good.


One of the things I chose to disregard in making this bag, it will be addressed in future editions, is the Cuben + felting turn of cloth, I cut the lining the same size it's not pretty. I'll have to cut and mark better as well, but that's not easy because I am using a sail, it has a shape so I can't count on the grain to help me visually. Cuben will destroy your scissors so don't take your good ones and have one of these little sharpening devices with you at all time. Cuben Fiber has absolutely no stretch whatsoever, this is why it's used in sailing and it makes it difficult to sew if you haven't been precise because you can't pull a bit to make it fit and iron it out, heat will destroy the fiber. I have to find another method to put in the piping as well, I don't like the result, but then I may need another kind of finishing ribbon altogether.


All in all though, I am pretty happy with this prototype and refinements will only make it better. You know what is the best thing about this bag though? It weighs just a little more than a pound. If we chose a lighter material than this black denim lining, I'm pretty sure we can come under it. This is pretty light for a waterproof, sturdy messenger.
Now I have to go buy a computer to test it myself!
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