La Cérémonie Estivale

Lise Sewing - Pierre-Auguste Renoir

Ça doit être le printemps.
Ma robe d'été annuelle est la seule chose à laquelle je pense en ce moment (celle de l'an dernier est ici). Une fois finie, j'aime l'accrocher au vu et au su jusqu'au jour J où je la décroche et je la porte. Quand j'habitais à Montréal, je cousais moins, j'achetais une robe d'été en mars et je faisais la même chose, une cérémonie estivale personnelle.
Cette année, je fais la robe muumuu. Je dois déterminer si j'ai assez du tissu que j'ai acheté pour presque rien l'autre jour et j'ai le kit de réparation de soutien-gorge, je suis presque prête.
Il me reste juste un petit truc à terminer...




Burda 7810 Plus A Nifty Little Trick


I hate making holes in garments.
Whether it's for a pocket, a buttonhole or snaps, I get nervous every time. And as you know, in this one, I even made a hole on the wrong side and was too far in construction to correct it. So this time I delegated and asked Mr C for help. It's his waistcoat, I wasn't going to take all the responsibility.


Here is the nifty little trick : once you've put in the top snaps, rub a bit of blackboard chalk on the inside, fold to the other side, press gently and you'll have perfect placement for the bottom parts.


Apart from the unfortunate upper pocket incident and the bit of procrastination in putting in the snaps, it was a great project. I loved working with the mystery tweed and I got to beef up on bespoke tailoring. Mr C is easy to fit and the vest should ward off the "you never make anything for me" complaints for a little while, so I can sew for myself some more. The Selfish Seamstress would be proud.


Burda 7810 Plus Un Petit Truc


Je déteste faire des trous dans mes vêtements.
Que ce soit pour une poche, une boutonnière ou des pressions, ça me rend nerveuse. Et comme j'avais déjà fait une grosse bourde avec la poche du haut et que la construction était trop avancée pour corriger, j'ai délégué la responsabilité à Mr C. C'est sa veste après tout!


Voici le petit truc : une fois que vous aurez placé les pressions devant, frotter un peu de craie dessous, repliez sur l'autre parmenture et pressez un peu, vous saurez exactement où faire vos trous de l'autre côté.


A part le placement erroné de la poche du haut et la pose des pressions maintes fois remise au lendemain, c'était un super projet. J'ai adoré travailler avec le tweed mystère et j'ai pu améliorer ma technique de couture tailleur. Mr C est facile à ajuster et cette veste devrait faire taire les plaintes du type "tu ne fais jamais rien pour moi" pendant un petit moment. The Selfish Seamstress serait fière de moi!


A Blue Leather Bag


If you tell enough people that you sew, they'll send stuff your way.
Antoine makes falconers' gloves out of upholstery leather scraps and I was telling him I was looking for electric blue leather and he said he had "not quite electric blue" calfskin that he couldn't use because it's not very historical and he would send some.
I didn't fancy the color much, it's a bit on the day-glow lavender side so, I asked around to see if I could dye it, not. It is so thick, I thought my machine wouldn't handle it, so I asked about that as well. Then, my crazy brother forwarded my US stash and I suddenly had a matching fabric for the lining and thus, began my journey into leather bag making!
A home sewer is not well equipped to sew leather. So I had to get a few unusual supplies besides a special leather needle and thicker thread for the machine : a cutter and several blades, a small piece of glass, a knife sharpener, a hammer, glue, a lighter, you might need a palm and a heavy duty hand sewing needle (I didn't). 


I also made a few tests out of scraps to get the shape I wanted. Test 1 went to my niece, test 2 to my goddaughter.


I made the lining, put in the magnet.


And then spent the better part of an afternoon gently sawing at the seam allowances with a cutter blade! 


See, this is how it's done. Bag makers have a special machine that does that to reduce bulk. I strongly recommend you keep all your scraps to practice before you do that. It's very easy to apply too much pressure and cut into the leather. To keep your blade really sharp, have a kitchen knife sharpener handy. Before sewing the darts, I was advised to hammer the skin to temporarily thin the leather. Don't back up, tie your thread and heat it up with the lighter ever so slightly to seal the knot. 
Even with all that work, my mid-range home sewing machine struggled through so if your machine is all plastic, prep and go to your local shoe-maker to have it sewn. 


I even got to rig a little thingamajig I never use to get the top stitching nice and even as I needed both hands to help the feed dogs. 
Next time I feel the urge to sew leather, I'll go visit somebody with the right machine, as I am not sure mine has survived the ordeal. I will also beef up on the turn of cloth concept as my lining ended up way too big.


You can see how my Singer struggled on the inside there. I also think it was a major design flaw on my part to want darts, which were an added difficulty, I'll have to remember to simplify.


And here it is, warts and all. I am quite happy even though it looks and feels like my first dress. 
It's just about the right size for keys, phone, wallet and coin purse which is the boon of having a growing son, you don't need to carry as much stuff, he can carry his own.
And I love the color now, it matches my new shoes!


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