Ohé! La Chemise / Ahoy! The Shirt Simplicity 7082

La transformation de Nicolas sera bientôt complète! 

Rien de super spécial pour la chemise tachée au thé, j'ai changé les manchettes pour me rapprocher de celles de Jack mais surtout, j'ai utilisé la méthode de montage de Kathleen Fasanella pour monter le col et les poignets et je ne la remercierai jamais assez. En faite, j'aimerais ça qu'elle écrive un livre pour nous les  couturières du dimanche intitulé genre : "Bidouillez vos patrons pour avoir des résultats professionnels" ou "1001 trucs de pro" ou "En direct du plancher de l'usine". 

Regardez, c'est presque parfait et ça s'est fait en une seule passe (la deuxième c'est pour faire plus solide vu qu'il va se battre avec). 

Kathleen, je vous aime!

Nicolas' transformation is almost complete!

There's nothing very special about the tea stained shirt, except that I changed the sleeve cuffs to make them more Jack-like. I have used Kathleen Fasanella's method for mounting the cuffs and the collar. I'll never be able to thank her enough. In fact, I would love her to write a book for home seamstresses titled something like : "Professional Tips from the Factory Floor" or "1001 Professional Sewing Tips For Sewing Enthusiasts" or "Modify Your Patterns and Sew Like a Pro".

Will you look at this? It's almost perfect and was done in one take (the second one is to make sure the cuffs don't come out in the sword fights). 

Kathleen, I love you!

In Progress : Another Burda

Emboldened by my very recent successful experiment with a Burda pattern, I am making another one!

I recently found this wool at the thrift shop and was going to make a skirt, but after washing it, I thought it would be a waste and a jacket would be better so I set up looking for one with very little yardage : #113 looks awesome. I am not sure about the back slit yet, but I like the extra long sleeves and I found this matching crazy ass chemical experiment gone awry polyester print for the lining and gave the project a go! 

Being out of drafting paper, I looked around the house for a possible replacement and found cooking parchment. It's slippery and scotch tape won't stick to it, but it's transparent enough to make sense of the psychedelic pattern sheet. 

Like with the Claire Shaeffer, I drafted every pattern piece, outer shell, lining and interfacing, which will help me get the precision I want. I did a quick tissue fit last night and everything looks in the right place. I'll try cutting it today and get back to you. I have very little fabric to work with, matching the plaid will be difficult, but I only paid 2€ for it so I won't fret over it too, too much.

Just in case you are wondering how I cut the lining pieces, Burda has a great video on how to do just that, I will use Fashion Incubator's tutorials on bagging a jacket and the Vogue 7467 instructions for the pockets so I won't follow the magazine's cryptographic instructions which never cease to baffle me, in either French or English. 

It's a regular complaint, I wonder why they don't document the making of the garments they sew for the magazine's pictures. Now that's an idea....

May 7th and 8th

This is Vogue 1132 which is a pretty spiffy pattern if you ask me, but I should warn you that not everyone was as successful as me in making it. Mary Beth even had a Blogger Meltdown making this.

I am a 12, but did a 10 so I could look like the girl on the enveloppe and even with that, in order to get the sleeves right, I had to take out a full 2 inches out on each sleeve.

I would like to say a special thank you to Kathleen at Fashion Incubator for her tutorials about bagging a jacket. They are the most comprehensible bagging tutorials out there and I can only urge you to go learn from them if you intend to make a lined coat or jacket. The lazy seamstress in me was so happy, I only had 10cm to hand sew and the result is amazingly professionnal looking.

The only thing I am sorry about is this cheap poly-rayon I used. I was stash busting.

 

This is the pretty generic pencil skirt with a big pleat in the back I made to go with it. I won't wear both at the same time though, too dowdy.